Lithium-Ion (Li-Io), charge voltage of one can: 4.2 - 4.25V. Further by the number of cells: 4.2, 8.4, 12.6, 16.8.... Charge current: for ordinary batteries is equal to 0.5 of the capacity in amperes or less. High-current ones can be safely charged with a current equal to the capacity in amperes (high-current 2800 mAh, charge 2.8 A or less).
Lithium polymer (Li-Po), charge voltage per can: 4.2V. Further by the number of cells: 4.2, 8.4, 12.6, 16.8.... Charge current: for ordinary batteries is equal to the capacity in amperes (battery 3300 mAh, charge 3.3 A or less).
Nickel-metal hydride (NiMH), charge voltage per can: 1.4 - 1.5V. Further by the number of cells: 2.8, 4.2, 5.6, 7, 8.4, 9.8, 11.2, 12.6... Charge current: 0.1-0.3 capacity in amperes (battery 2700 mAh, charge 0.27 A or less). Charging takes no more than 15-16 hours.
Lead-acid (Lead Acid), charge voltage per can: 2.3V. Further by number of cells: 4.6, 6.9, 9.2, 11.5, 13.8 (automotive). Charge current: 0.1-0.3 capacity in amperes (battery 80 Ah, charge 16A or less).

I have adjustable block nutrition. Only voltage is regulated; therefore, there is no current regulation. For some purposes it is enough. I decided to assemble a unit with current and voltage regulation. A laboratory power supply, or LBP, is a very necessary thing.
The LBP circuit is very simple, since I will use .

Characteristics

Main characteristics of the module:

• Input voltage 5 - 40 Volts;
• Output voltage 1.2 - 35 Volts;
• Output current (max) 9 Amperes, it is advisable to install a cooler.

Power supply diagram

As I already said, the scheme is simple. The mains voltage is supplied to the transformer. There is a power switch and fuse. The voltage is stepped down by a transformer. The top honor of the power circuit. Alternating voltage is supplied to the diode bridge and smoothing capacitor. Next it goes to the DC-DC converter. From the converter, voltage is supplied to the output terminals. The minus of the circuit is broken by the device. For convenience, the adjustment resistors are removed from the board.
The lower one is designed to power the voltammeter. The transformer has a separate winding. As with the power winding, alternating voltage is supplied to the diode bridge and filter capacitor. Next, I installed a 5 Volt linear stabilizer.

Components

We figured out the scheme. Now let's move on to the components.
The body of the LBP will be the old body from the soldering iron regulator. The soldering iron regulator dates back to USSR times. Very kind.

The front panel will be made of composite plastic. The plastic consists of two aluminum plates and plastic between it. On the one hand it is white, on the other it is black. The black side will be the front.

A step-down transformer from old equipment, I don’t remember which one. It had to be slightly modified. I made a tap at 22 Volts, a full winding at 27 Volts. If left, then after the diode bridge the voltage is more than 30 Volts. This is a lot for a 7805 stabilizer installed on a DC-DC converter. He nourishes operational amplifier scheme. Although 40 Volts are stated, taking into account the maximum for 7805 at 30 Volts.

.

. For a more accurate display of output parameters, you need to apply it to 4 segments. I had the one I had and used it.

Terminals from the times of the USSR. Strong and reliable.

Capacitor 4700 microfarads * 63 Volts. Based on 1000 microfarads per 1 Ampere. Another 2*470 uF are installed on the module.

You can use a single diode bridge, but I still have it from an old project. Assembled on 4 D242 diodes.

Manufacturing

At the bottom of the case we mark and drill holes for: transformer, diode bridge, module. We solder everything according to the circuits. I removed two trimming resistors from the module. I soldered wires instead. There are 3 wires for current, two for voltage.

I will power the Voltammeter through a 5 Volt linear stabilizer. Diode bridge KTs402 and a small capacitor.

On the back panel I make markings for the power connector and fuse. I carefully cut everything out and install it.

I mark and cut out all the holes on the front panel. There will be: output terminals, power switch, current and voltage resistors, Volt-ampere meter.

I soldered all the elements installed from the inside. The power switch switches both network wires. Initially I wanted to use another one.

We install all the elements of the front panel. The positive terminal is marked with red paint. Resistor handles of different colors. Red is the color of the Volts display. Yellow in current. I have not yet signed where the current and voltage are. Later I will change the resistors to multi-turn ones, and perhaps change the handles too.

I painted the top cover. There was too big a gap between the front panel and the lid; I closed it with a small corner. When tested, the unit produced 9 Amperes on short, at 28 Volts, which amounted to a little more than 250 Watts.

This is how the Laboratory Power Supply turned out. They can power various types of devices and also charge batteries. Initially I wanted to use a 24 Volt pulse source, but I came across a transformer of the required dimensions. Also, I try to assemble a device from what I have. Thank you all for your attention!

In this article I want to tell you and show in the photo my laboratory power supply, which I assembled block by block, using ready-made modules from Aliexpress. I have already talked about these same modules separately on the site. I wanted to make a simple, reliable, affordable unit, with the necessary parameters and small dimensions. I watched a couple of videos about similar blocks on the Internet, ordered the necessary modules and assembled them myself. Initially, a converted computer power supply was used as a power source. But since I never managed to get him to normal operation(it got quite hot and fell a little short of the calculated maximum current), it was decided to buy it from Aliexpress. The maximum operating voltage for the unit in most cases is 0-30 Volts, although there was an idea to make it from 0 to 50 Volts. The power source that I used delivers 36 Volts and a current of up to 5 Amperes. A power of 180 watts is quite enough for my tasks. I used it as a voltage and current regulator (limitation). The module acts as an indicator. A regular plastic housing of type Z1 (70x188x197 mm) was used as the housing. In principle, these modules are already enough to build a laboratory, but I added one more here in order to output 5 Volts to the USB connectors located on the front panel. We also, of course, need a pair of remote variable 10 K resistors, a toggle switch to turn the power on/off, USB pair sockets (I took a double socket), and a pair of banana sockets for connecting the output cable. We fasten the modules inside the case, mark and drill the front panel.

Then we unsolder both trimming resistors from the module and solder in their place variable resistors on wires of sufficient length (I put another 1 K in series with the 10 K resistors for fine tuning, but this did not give much effect). Well, then we connect all the modules according to the diagram.

If you do it with USB, then do not forget to set the LM2596 module to 5V. And note that the negative wire USB power supply It is taken not from the LM2596 module, but from the output mass of the power supply unit (from the negative “banana”). This is necessary so that when you connect something to the USB block, you can see the current consumed. In my block you can see another module in the photo - this is also DC-DC, I wanted to leave it instead of LM2596 for the role of USB power, but it is quite power-hungry in idle mode, so I left the LM module. I also have a fan. If you also want to equip the unit with a fan, then select one that is suitable in size and for a voltage of 5 V. It is connected to the plus and minus of the LM2596 module (in this case, the minus is taken from the module, otherwise the current consumed by the fan will be constantly displayed on the indicator). I highly recommend that you turn it on for the first time through a 40-60 W incandescent lamp. If something is wrong, in this case you will avoid fireworks. My unit worked immediately, and so far there have been no problems with it.

Quite often, during testing, it is necessary to power various crafts or devices. And using batteries, selecting the appropriate voltage, was no longer a joy. Therefore, I decided to assemble an regulated power supply. Of the several options that came to mind, namely: converting a computer ATX power supply, or assembling a linear one, or purchasing a KIT kit, or assembling from ready-made modules - I chose the latter.

This option I liked the assembly because of its undemanding knowledge of electronics, the speed of assembly, and, if something happens, the quick replacement or addition of any of the modules. The total cost of all components was about $15, and the power ended up being ~100 Watts, with a maximum output voltage of 23V.

To create this regulated power supply you will need:

1. Switching power supply 24V 4A
2. Buck converter for XL4015 4-38V to 1.25-36V 5A
3. Volt-ampermeter 3 or 4 characters
4. Two step-down converters on LM2596 3-40V to 1.3-35V
5. Two 10K potentiometers and knobs for them
6. Two banana terminals
7. On/off button and 220V power connector
8. 12V fan, in my case 80mm slim
9. Any body you like
10. Stands and bolts for mounting boards
11. The wires I used were from a dead ATX power supply.

After finding and purchasing all the components, we proceed to assembly according to the diagram below. Using it, we will get an adjustable power supply with a voltage change from 1.25V to 23V and a current limit to 5A, plus the additional ability to charge devices via USB ports, the consumed amount of current, which will be displayed on the V-A meter.

We first mark and cut out holes for a volt-ampere meter, potentiometer knobs, terminals, and USB outputs on the front side of the case.

We use a piece of plastic as a platform for attaching modules. It will protect you from the unwanted short circuit on the body.

We mark and drill the location of the board holes, and then screw in the racks.

We screw the plastic pad to the body.

We unsolder the terminal on the power supply, and solder three wires on + and -, the pre-cut length. One pair will go to the main converter, the second to the converter for powering the fan and volt-ampere meter, the third to the converter for USB outputs.

We install a 220V power connector and an on/off button. Solder the wires.

We screw the power supply and connect the 220V wires to the terminal.

We've sorted out the main power source, now let's move on to the main converter.

We solder the terminals and trimming resistors.

We solder the wires to the potentiometers responsible for regulating voltage and current, and to the converter.

Solder the thick red wire from V-A meters and output plus from the main generator to the output positive terminal.

We are preparing a USB output. We connect the date + and - for each USB separately so that the connected device can be charged and not synchronized. Solder the wires to the paralleled + and - power contacts. It is better to take thicker wires.

Solder the yellow wire from the VA meter and the negative wire from the USB outputs to the negative output terminal.

We connect the power wires of the fan and the VA meter to the outputs of the additional converter. For the fan, you can assemble a thermostat (diagram below). You will need: power MOSFET transistor(N channel) (I took it out of the processor power supply on motherboard), trimmer 10 kOhm, sensor temperature NTC with a resistance of 10 kOhm (thermistor) (it was taken from a broken ATX power supply). We attach the thermistor with hot glue to the main converter microcircuit, or to the radiator on this microcircuit. Using a trimmer, we set it to a certain temperature when the fan operates, for example, 40 degrees.

We solder the plus of the USB outputs to the output plus of another, additional converter.

We take one pair of wires from the power supply and solder it to the input of the main converter, then the second to the additional input. converter for USB to provide incoming voltage.

We screw the fan with the grille.

Solder the third pair of wires from the power supply to the extra. converter for fan and VA meter. We screw everything to the site.

We connect the wires to the output terminals.

We screw the potentiometers onto front side housings.

We attach the USB outputs. For reliable fixation, a U-shaped fastening was made.

We adjust the output voltages to additional. converters: 5.3V, taking into account the voltage drop when connecting a load to USB, and 12V.

We tighten the wires for a neat internal appearance.

Close the housing with a lid.

We glue the legs for stability.

The regulated power supply is ready.

Video version of the review:

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Hi all. Anyone who works in electronics should have a . If you are reluctant to solder or you are a beginner radio amateur, this article was written especially for you. Let's immediately talk about the characteristics of the power supply and its difference from popular varieties of power supplies based on LM317 or LM338.

Modules for power supply

We will collect pulse block power supply, but we won’t solder anything, we’ll just buy from the Chinese an already soldered voltage regulation module with current limitation, such a module can deliver 30 volts 5 amperes. Agree that not every analog power supply is capable of this, and what losses in the form of heat, since the transistor or microcircuit takes on the excess voltage. I’m not writing about a specific type of module and its circuit - there are all sorts of them.

Now the indication - here we won’t invent anything either, we’ll take a ready-made indication module, as with the voltage control module.

How will all this be powered from a 220 V network - read on. There are two ways here.

1. The first is to look for a ready-made transformer or wind your own.
2. The second is to take a switching power supply for the required voltage and current, or modify it to the required characteristics.

And yes, I forgot to say that you can supply the control module with a maximum of 32 volts without consequences, but 30 volts is better than 5 amperes, you need to be careful with the current too, since the control circuit tolerates 5 amperes, but no more, but it gives everything it has to transformer and therefore burns out easily.

PSU assembly

The assembly process itself is even more interesting. Let me tell you how I get on with the components.

• Switching power supply from a laptop 19 volts 3.5 amperes.
• Control module.
• Display module.

That's all, yes, I didn't forget to add anything, but we probably also need some old building. My Soviet car radio worked, and any other one will do the same, but I would like to separately praise the case from a PC DVD drive.

We are assembling our future power supply, before attaching the boards to the case, we need to insulate them, I provided a backing made of thick film and then all the boards can be attached with double-sided tape.

But when it came to variable resistors to regulate the voltage and limit the current, I realized that I didn’t have them, well, not that I didn’t have them at all - there wasn’t the required rating, namely 10 K. But they are on the board, and I did the following: I found two burnt-out variables (so as not to it was a pity), I took out the handles and thought of soldering them to the variables that were on the board, why were they - I unsoldered them and tinned the screw.

But nothing came of it; I was able to center it only when I did this nonsense through heat shrink. But it worked, I’m happy with it, and we’ll find out how long it will work.

If you wish, you can paint the body, I didn’t do it very well, but it’s better than just metal.

As a result, we have a very compact, lightweight laboratory power supply with short circuit protection, current limitation, and, of course, voltage regulation. And all this is done very smoothly thanks to multi-turn resistors that were soldered from the control board. The voltage adjustment turned out to be from 0.8 volts to 20. The current limit was from 20 mA to 4 A. Good luck to everyone, I was with you Kalyan.Super.Bos

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